Frequently Asked Questions

Insulation Pros is a family owned and operated company in Winston-Salem, NC that focuses on attics and crawlspaces. Our six services are attic insulation, crawlspace encapsulation, vapor barrier installation, crawlspace dehumidifier installation, air sealing and duct sealing, and spray foam insulation. Most homeowners call us because of high energy bills, rooms that will not stay comfortable, or a musty smell. We start with a free estimate visit and explain what we find before recommending anything.

We are based in Winston-Salem and serve homes in Winston-Salem, Kernersville, Clemmons, Lewisville, High Point, Greensboro, Advance and Mocksville, across the Piedmont Triad and nearby Davie County. If your home is close to one of those towns but not on the list, call (336) 870-3893 and ask. It costs nothing to find out whether we can help, and we will tell you honestly if we cannot.

Yes. Insulation Pros is family owned and operated, based in Winston-Salem, NC. We are a small local business rather than a national franchise, and we would like you to judge us by how we treat you at the estimate. Our Google listing currently shows 5.0 stars from 13 Google reviews, and you are welcome to read them before you call us.

Start with what you notice. Rooms that are too hot or cold, or high energy bills, usually point to the attic and air leaks. A musty smell, damp floors or sagging floor insulation usually points to the crawlspace. Ducts that run through either space can matter too. You do not have to diagnose it yourself. Our free estimate visit is meant to figure that out, and we explain each recommendation in plain language.

It often helps, but results vary from house to house. The EPA's ENERGY STAR program says homeowners can save an average of about 15 percent on heating and cooling costs, or about 11 percent on total energy costs, by air sealing and adding insulation in attics, floors over crawl spaces and accessible basement rim joists. Your own results depend on your home's condition, your heating and cooling system, and how you use it. We cannot promise a specific savings.

There is no universal answer. The attic often has the bigger effect on year-round comfort because heat moves through the top of a house. The crawlspace matters most for moisture, odors, floors and air quality. Many homes benefit from both, and some need only one. At the estimate we look at both spaces and tell you which one deserves attention first and why, so you can decide how to proceed.

Our work is insulation, air sealing and moisture control in attics and crawlspaces. If we come across a roof leak, a plumbing leak or a failing heating and cooling component, we will point it out and explain how it affects the space. Those repairs generally belong to a roofer, plumber or HVAC contractor. Moisture from an active leak needs to be fixed at the source before insulation or a crawlspace liner can do its job.

Some small jobs are reasonable for a careful homeowner, but these spaces are hot, tight and easy to get wrong. Common mistakes include blocking soffit vents, covering fixtures that need clearance, skipping air sealing, and leaving gaps in a crawlspace liner. Crawlspaces can also hold hazards you cannot see at first glance. If you are unsure, ask us for a free estimate and compare what we recommend with what you had in mind.

Crawlspace encapsulation turns a vented, damp crawlspace into a sealed, controlled space. Typically that means covering the ground with a heavy-duty liner, running it up the foundation walls, sealing the seams, closing off the foundation vents, and managing the remaining humidity, often with a dehumidifier. The goal is to keep ground moisture and humid outside air away from the wood and ductwork under your house. The exact approach depends on your crawlspace.

Not every crawlspace does. It is worth considering if you notice a musty smell, sagging or fallen insulation, damp or dark wood, condensation on ducts, or bare dirt with open vents. A dry, sound crawlspace with a good ground cover may only need a small repair or nothing at all. We inspect the space and tell you honestly which category yours falls into, with no pressure.

It addresses the conditions that let mold and odors develop, which is excess moisture. As humidity in the crawlspace drops, odors often improve. Existing mold on wood is a separate question, and no product can promise it will never return. If we see growth, we will point it out and explain what we can do and when a mold specialist is more appropriate. We would rather set expectations honestly than overpromise.

Not by themselves. Simply blocking vents on an otherwise untreated crawlspace may not solve anything, because ground moisture and humidity are still present. Building codes do allow closed, unvented crawlspaces when they are properly designed, which usually means a sealed ground cover and walls, and some form of humidity control. If you are considering closing vents, we can look at the whole space and explain what that would involve.

Liquid water is a different problem from humidity, and a liner alone will not solve it. Standing water often traces back to grading, gutters, downspouts or plumbing, and those causes should be addressed first. If we see water during an estimate, we will show you and explain what we think is causing it. Encapsulation can then be planned around the fix, so the work is not wasted.

The time depends on the size of the crawlspace, how easy it is to access, and its condition. Clearing debris, old insulation or existing plastic can add time. Because it varies so much, we do not quote a generic number. Your written estimate covers the work, and we will talk through scheduling with you before anything starts so you know what to expect.

It can help, mostly by keeping damp, unconditioned air from moving into your living space through the floor. Many people notice fresher air and floors that feel less clammy. The effect on energy bills depends on your home, and we cannot promise specific savings. The main reasons to encapsulate are moisture control and protecting the wood structure under your house, and comfort benefits come with that.

It depends on the crawlspace. In a sealed crawlspace, a dehumidifier is often the piece that holds humidity in a safe range through the humid months. In a vented, unsealed crawlspace, a dehumidifier would be fighting outdoor air constantly, so sealing usually comes first. An inspection tells us how damp the space is and whether a ground cover, sealing, a dehumidifier, or a combination makes sense.

Usually not. If vents are open and the soil is bare, moisture keeps arriving as fast as the unit can remove it, and it may run constantly without solving anything. A dehumidifier works best as part of a sealed crawlspace with a ground cover and closed vents. We look at your crawlspace as a whole and explain what combination fits, so the equipment is not asked to do an impossible job.

Many building-science sources suggest keeping crawlspace and indoor humidity below about 60 percent, because mold is more likely above that level, and many aim somewhat lower. The right target can depend on the space, the season and your equipment. We can talk through a reasonable target during the estimate. We do not promise a particular reading, since conditions and weather vary.

A crawlspace dehumidifier collects water as it pulls moisture out of the air, and that water needs somewhere to go. Usually it drains by gravity to an outdoor spot, or a small pump moves it out. The unit also needs electrical power nearby. We plan the drain route and power source during the estimate so the setup works in your particular crawlspace.

Most units need their filters cleaned or replaced, and the drain line checked to make sure it is not clogged. It is also smart to notice whether the unit is running normally and whether the crawlspace still smells or feels damp. What it costs to run depends on the unit, how damp the space is and your electric rates, so we do not quote figures here.

Spray foam is applied as a liquid that expands and hardens, filling gaps and creating an air seal along with insulation. That makes it a good fit for tight or irregular spaces, such as rim joists, additions, small enclosed cavities and areas where blown-in material cannot reach. It is not needed everywhere, and we use it where its advantages matter rather than as a default for every job.

In general terms, open-cell foam is softer and lighter, and it lets some water vapor pass through, while closed-cell foam is denser, insulates more per inch, and resists moisture better. Each has places where it makes sense, and neither is right for every situation. We explain which type suits your space, and why, during the estimate so you know what you are choosing.

They are different tools. Blown-in insulation is usually a practical choice for open attic floors, while spray foam is often better for rim joists, additions and awkward spots where air sealing matters as much as R-value. Spray foam generally costs more, so it makes sense to use it where it counts. Many homes use both, each where it performs best.

Manufacturers specify how long people and pets should stay out of the area during and after application, and how much ventilation is needed while the foam cures. Those instructions need to be followed exactly. We go over timing and preparation with you before work starts so you know what to plan for, whether that means leaving for a period or keeping certain rooms closed.

Not by itself. Closed-cell foam resists moisture and is sometimes used on rim joists or walls, but it does not stop humidity or bulk water from entering a space. A wet or humid crawlspace usually needs its ground moisture and air handled through a barrier, sealing and humidity control. We look at the crawlspace and tell you whether foam belongs in the plan.

It depends on the size of the space, how easy it is to reach, the materials involved, and the condition we find, so we do not publish prices or price ranges on this website. The most reliable way to learn what your project would cost is a free estimate. After the visit, you receive a written estimate for your specific home, and we are glad to answer questions about it.

We do not currently advertise financing or payment plans. Payment timing and accepted payment methods are explained together with your written estimate, so you know how it works before you decide. If financing matters to you, ask when you schedule your visit, and we will give you a straight answer instead of leaving you guessing.

We will confirm accepted payment methods with your estimate. We prefer not to list options here that we cannot be sure apply to every job, so you do not plan around something that turns out to be unavailable. If you have a question about how you would like to pay, ask when you schedule the visit or when you receive the written estimate.

Whether a deposit applies, and when payments are due, are explained in your written estimate before you agree to anything. We do not state a set percentage or schedule on this website, because it can depend on the job. You are welcome to ask questions about payment timing at any point, including before the estimate visit.

We do not advertise discounts. Incentive programs are set by utilities and governments, they change over time, and eligibility depends on your situation, so check with your utility and a tax professional for current details. If you need it, we can provide a clear written description of the work for your records. We do not want to promise anything we cannot verify.

Your written estimate describes the work we plan to do. If we uncover something unexpected, such as moisture damage or wood that could not be seen during the estimate, we will explain what we found and go over your options with you before any added work. You should never be surprised by a change, and you are always free to ask questions.